Nihari Knockout in Lahore: Haji vs Waris

Nihari is a Lahori specialty. According to a famous story, it originated from Dehli, India, but is very much considered a Pakistani dish as well. Three decade ago, nihari was almost exclusively made using beef. Nowadays however, mutton and chicken are also used. When it comes to this meat dish, there are a number of well-known names in Lahore. We’re going to compare two of the best names in the game: Haji and Waris.

Haji Sahab Nihari Walley

Haji Sahab Nihari Walley, or simply Haji Nihari, has two branches in Lahore, the original one inside the Lahori Gate, and the newer branch in Johar Town. We’d recommend visiting the Lahori Gate branch. This is a traditional family business, with the first shop set up in Dehli by the name of Din Jaan. After partition, the family migrated to Pakistan and started Haji Nihari. Today, the original owner’s son and grandson manage the business.

When it comes to taste, one of the best things about Haji Nihari is that they offer Kashmiri rotis instead of naan. According to the owner, naans ruin the taste of the meat dish. I also recommend trying their maghaz and nali, for the full nihari experience. If you don’t particularly like spicy nihari, this is definitely the place for you. With its traditional taste, a great backstory, and a taste thats rich on flavor and easy on the spices, Haji is a must visit in the old part of the city.

Their prices are a bit steep, with a half plate is likely to set you back Rs. 240. The Lahori Gate branch is open from before dawn to around 3 in the afternoon. And if you’re planning a visit in the winter time, be sure to get there well before noon to stand even a chance of getting some.

Waris Nihari

Located on Akbari Road inside Anarkali, Waris Nihari has made quite a name for itself over the years. As the story goes, Waris, the owner, started selling nihari 35 years ago from this very location. Today, he visits that same spot to supervises the operations of a thriving restaurant.

Waris differs from Haji in that garam masala is not added to the nihari while cooking, and is provided to you separately to add. The nihari here is also a bit thicker and more spicy that Haji.

Finding Waris is also a bit of a treasure hunt. It is recommended to bring along a local to help you find the place. The upside is that Waris is lighter on the pocket as compared to Haji. A half plate will cost you Rs. 170. They also offer Kashmiri roti instead of naan.

Though both are excellent, I personally prefer Waris Nihari .

Who do you think won? Share with us your favorite spot! Also if you’re new to the city, or just a Lahori who’s not clued in,  try these 5 places to eat genuine Lahori food.